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Scroll through any listing on our site and you'll notice we tag every part as either OEM or Aftermarket. It's not a throwaway detail — it's one of the biggest factors in what a part costs, how it fits, and how long it lasts. Here's what the label actually means and how to decide which one belongs in your engine.
OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. An OEM part is made by (or under contract for) the same company that built your engine — Mercury, Yamaha, Suzuki, Honda, Johnson/Evinrude, Tohatsu/Nissan, Chrysler/Force, Volvo Penta, Sea-Doo, Kawasaki, Polaris, Tigershark, or Crusader. It's engineered to the exact specifications your engine shipped with, down to the tolerances, materials, and finish.
That precision is why OEM parts typically cost more. You're paying for a guaranteed fit and for engineering that's been validated by the manufacturer, not just a compatible substitute.
Aftermarket parts are made by independent manufacturers — brands like NGK, Solas, Pro Marine, Arco, or MES — designed to fit and function like the original. A good aftermarket part meets or exceeds OEM specs at a lower price; a poor one cuts corners you won't notice until it fails.
The gap between "good aftermarket" and "bad aftermarket" is much wider than the gap between OEM and good aftermarket, which is exactly why sourcing from a supplier that vets its brands matters more than the OEM/aftermarket label by itself.
Aftermarket parts commonly run 20–60% less than OEM for the same application. On a simple wear item like a spark plug, that gap barely matters. On a major component, it adds up fast.
OEM parts are made to the engine builder's exact tolerances, so installation is predictable. Reputable aftermarket manufacturers reverse-engineer to the same tolerances; budget aftermarket parts sometimes don't, which shows up as leaks, vibration, or a part that technically bolts on but doesn't seal or seat correctly.
If your engine is still under manufacturer warranty, check the terms before installing aftermarket parts on anything covered — some warranties can be affected by non-OEM components on core systems like fuel delivery or ignition. Aftermarket parts carry their own manufacturer warranty, which is usually shorter than what you'd get on a new OEM part.
This is where aftermarket often wins. OEM parts for an older Johnson/Evinrude or Chrysler/Force engine can be back-ordered for months or discontinued entirely. Aftermarket manufacturers frequently keep producing parts for engines the original manufacturer has stopped supporting.
You don't have to pick one lane for your whole engine. Most experienced boaters mix and match:
Every product page on Knights Marine Parts states plainly whether a part is OEM or Aftermarket, along with the manufacturer, cross-reference numbers, and which engines it fits. That's so you can make this call part by part instead of guessing. Browse by your engine brand — Yamaha, Mercury/Mercruiser, Suzuki, Honda, Johnson/Evinrude, Tohatsu/Nissan, Chrysler/Force, Volvo Penta, Sea-Doo, Kawasaki, Polaris, Tigershark, or Crusader — and use the cross-reference numbers to confirm fit before you buy.
Will an aftermarket part void my engine warranty?
Not automatically, but it depends on your manufacturer's specific terms and which system the part is in. Check your warranty documentation, especially for engines still in their first few years.
Is aftermarket always lower quality?
No. Quality tracks the manufacturer, not the OEM/aftermarket label. NGK, for example, is a respected aftermarket ignition brand used across multiple engine makes.
What if I can't find an OEM part for my engine?
This is common on older or discontinued models. A well-matched aftermarket part, verified against the correct cross-reference number, is usually the practical answer.
Photo: Suzuki DF140A outboard motor, Morio, licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
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